![]() ![]() Generally, it's a lot of simple sugars and some flavors in there. Of course, I can't distill at home, so this is a "maybe-someday" kind of project. The increase in alcohol will stun/kill the yeast, leaving a strong but still syrupy and sweet drink. Something that's on my to-do list is make a maple fortified wine- you can theoretically distill some of your maple wine and add it to another batch that's mid-ferment, catching it at 1.020 or 1.025 gravity. Gets all dry and woody, without needing oaking. Maple syrup is also pretty fantastic just by itself- mix enough into water (depends on the syrup, so you have to measure) to get about 1.075 OG (or higher), and ferment it either with a clean ale yeast or a champagne yeast. Getting it for free or cheap would be pretty awesome. Then I priced out a 5 gallon batch of maple wine and realized that maple syrup (the good stuff, why bother with the commercial bland crap you get a Trader Joe's) is *spendy*. Seems like a pretty great source for fermentables and flavor. That way, I'll be able to hit a higher ABV and not make it too difficult for the yeast to start working.Īt first, I wondered why we didn't see more maple syrup-based alcoholic beverages. I would probably add the reduced syrup once fermentation has been going for a while. I'd add some more reduced syrup to add more flavors to it. I'd love to get about 4-5 gallons of maple syrup that has a gravity in the 1.100-1.120 range for a mead. Going that route, you could make your base brew, and then add a pint, or so, of syrup at a time until you have what you're looking for.Īnother option would be to use it in place of honey and make a mead from it. Taste the brew before you decide to add more, so that you don't go too heavy, or too light. I might add some during primary fermentation (post boil, same as I would honey) but I would add more post primary fermentation (I wouldn't rack to another fermenter, leave it in the same one). ![]() Make something that will be enhanced by the flavors, or allow them to shine. Just be sure to not use a lot of strong specialty grains that will overpower it's flavor. The Apfelwein is ageing in the background.How much will you have access to? You could use it as a flavor element in something like an old ale, modest barley wine, or any number of other brews. Picture is Caramel Apple Hard Cider in the foreground, after adding yeast. I highly recommend that you fill and cap a plastic pop or beer bottle first, and use that as a guide to tell you when it will be time to Stovetop Pasteurize the batch. If you are carbing in the bottle, be aware that this will carb up fast (4 - 5 days) due to all the sugar. Add the Caramel Syrup and the 5 cans of apple juice concentrate while siphoning to aid in mixing. Make the Caramel Syrup and wait 24 hours before proceeding.Īfter 24 hours, siphon cider into your bottling bucket. If you want a carbonated cider, skip this optional step. OPTION: If you want a still cider, add 5 crushed Campden tablets to the cider at this time. ![]() Pour bottle 7 of apple juice into carboy. Take another sample for OG, got a reading of 1.064. Pour bottles 4, 5, and 6 of apple juice into carboy. Shake bottles to mix sugar and apple juice. Add 1 pound dextrose per bottle to the remaining amount of apple juice in bottles 3 and 4. In a 6 gallon carboy, pour in bottles 1 and 2 of apple juice. Opened 1 bottle of apple juice, got a gravity reading of 1.050. At boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 5 minutes (until volume is reduced to half). cans of Frozen Apple Juice Concentrate, thawed to room temperatureĬombine in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Planning on this Recipe and Kegging for Carbonation.ħ x 96 ounce bottles (5.25 gallons) Wegmans 100% Apple Juice, pasteurized, only vitamin C addedĥ – 12 oz. I want to make a hard cider, although I could stop by the LBS I was wondering if any of my stored Wyeast would work for this…I have the following Wyeast 1007, 1728, 1084, 2112, 3711. ![]()
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